Phronesis

Venice stands on an upside-down forest

Under the palaces of Venice are millions of wooden stakes driven into the mud of the lagoon, some of them for more than a thousand years.

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When refugees from the mainland settled the islands of the Venetian lagoon in the early Middle Ages, they faced a problem: there was no solid ground, only soft mud and sand over firmer clay.

Their solution was to drive timber stakes, typically alder, oak and larch, shipped in from forests in the Alps and along the Adriatic, tightly into the lagoon bed. On top went horizontal wooden platforms, then layers of Istrian stone, which resists water, and only then the brick and marble buildings.

Why the wood hasn’t rotted

Wood rots because of fungi, which need oxygen. The piles are sealed in waterlogged mud, so fungi can’t do much. Slower bacterial decay still happens, and the wood also becomes harder as minerals soak in. Studies show the piles have degraded in places, but many have carried their loads for centuries.

The famous numbers

Guides often say the Rialto Bridge stands on about 12,000 piles and the church of Santa Maria della Salute on more than a million. These traditional figures come from historical records and are widely repeated; they are best treated as estimates.

Venice’s real threats today are sinking ground, rising seas and flooding. The MOSE flood barriers began operating in 2020 to protect the city.

Bring it up

“There’s practically a whole forest under Venice, driven upside down into the mud.”

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