Phronesis
No. 031Dish1839Cuisine & Food ·History ·Cities

The croissant is Austrian (sort of)

France’s most famous breakfast pastry descends from the Viennese kipferl, brought to Paris by an Austrian entrepreneur around 1839.

2 min read

Austrians have baked the crescent-shaped kipferl since at least the Middle Ages. It was a richer bread, not the flaky pastry we know.

Around 1838–1839, an Austrian former artillery officer named August Zang opened the Boulangerie Viennoise at 92 rue de Richelieu in Paris. His Viennese breads and kipferl were a hit, and Parisian bakers soon copied them. Pastries made with techniques from Vienna are still called viennoiseries in French bakeries.

Where the flakiness came from

Zang’s kipferl was not the croissant of today. The laminated dough, folded again and again with butter to create hundreds of thin layers, was developed by French bakers. Recipes for something recognisable appear around the turn of the 20th century. So the honest answer to “is the croissant French?” is: Viennese idea, French perfection.

The famous myth

The often-repeated story says Viennese bakers invented the crescent shape in 1683 to celebrate defeating the Ottoman siege, mocking the crescent on Ottoman flags. Food historians, including Alan Davidson, have found no contemporary evidence for it, and the story appears only much later. Another legend credits Marie Antoinette with bringing it to France. That one is also unsupported.

Bring it up

“The croissant is a Viennese idea that the French perfected, and the story about it celebrating a victory over the Ottomans is a myth.”

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